-i'm old. i saw a listing for a local surfing competition that had a "seniors(31 and up)" division. i'm 31.
-i'm fat
-i'm short
-i'm female
-i'm horrendously unathletic and outdoorsy
-i quit hobbies like it's my hobby
-it's dangerous
-it's hard
why should i surf?
i dunno, i like it. or i think i'd like it. i like it conceptually. sometime late last year it struck me as the coolest thing a person could do and it took several months for me to have the right combination of delusions and sheer balls to try it.
i think people either Get It or They Don't. my friends are largely baffled and while a few think it's cool, noone seems keen to try it themselves nor do they find it some sort of dazzling bridge between the default human existence and a fantasy-like aquatic flight. weirdos.
mainstream surfing culture is pretty jocked out and gross right now. ripper, shredders, bikini butt babes..
more people like me should be surfing, really. i decided to make this blog chronicling the process of me trying to learn how to do it.
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