wow, i can't believe i've been surfing for a quarter of a year already. of course that's like, nothing. but i can feel how it's a pretty good time point where the majority of people get intensely frustrated and give up. i honestly think that if i hadn't decided to take lessons and get some help, i might be close to it.

i had a really frustrating day at linda mar (i feel like i've said this so many times!)- of course, it was fair/poor conditions but after using the giant SUP to learn on, wobbling off my 9' board was a pretty miserable experience. i was totally rusty and the water was SO choppy. i so desperately want to be able to just catch a wave on my own, aside from standing.. but i feel like i can't get lined up and comfortable/balanced on my board nor can i really assess a good place to be in the constant washing machine environment.

it took me 3 tries to even get close to getting out the back but really, i barely did because there was so much chop and there were sorta mini waves breaking out far past even where the eye could see. on the bright side, there weren't many other people getting much done in the water either. it was the first time there were more people out on the beach than in the water, including young girls in bikinis playing at the shore which shocked me as it was FREEZING COLD in the water. like, hurt my hands. i got slammed in the face and shot off my board more times than i can count. it was hard for me to try and punch through waves when i wasn't balancing on my board very well. i can really see why the right equipment for beginners is so important- a too small board just makes a fun activity an exercise in futility.

i try to at least take away one positive from any trip out and i will say that even though i haven't paddled much in the past few weeks, this was one time where i really felt like i was moving when i was paddling and ensuring i was digging in the water with long strokes and pulling myself forward. also,  i did accomplish one really good turtle roll, didn't get dragged, wave rolled right over me, flipped back and kept paddling.

really, i just missed riding waves so much. i have been spoiled on my lessons with richard, where i am riding like 10+ waves per hour. it's kinda hard to go back now that i've had a taste of that. i really am SO HAPPY i ordered a new board that will be much more stable than what i have now.

i also made an important non-surfing related decision this weekend which was that i need to be a little more diversified in my life with my activities. i had totally uprooted my social life for surfing, which was due to general burn-out but ultimately not really healthy. so i went to my old regular haunt nightclub and went dancing, had a couple drinks, saw friends.. it felt really good. however, it also made me feel like shit the day after though i guess a saltwater dunk might have alleviated. i so wish i liked linda mar more. it just doesn't even compare to the perfection that is santa cruz :(

so i think i will try to have a lesson this saturday. this just isn't really enough surfing for my liking, but life is what it is.  i just realized i'm not even sore from yesterday! maybe that's some sort of growth. i don't think i was out all that long, maybe an hour at most though. i remember i was totally annihilated for days after my first time in the ocean with a surfboard.

thinking about joining a gym so i can fill some weekday time with elliptical or something to get cardio in to try and get my stamina up for my LA trip where i want to make sure i surf at least 5/7 days. aaand i guess that's it! boring blog is boring.