-i think i am an official Sunscreen Paranoid. i fear sun damage to my skin more than anything this side of jaws and take pride in my creamy pallor. i think i'd probably put a thick layer of white on my face if i ever went night surfing, just to be sure.
-my post-beach hair is pretty dope. no wonder women spend time and money on tools and products to make their hair look "effortlessly beachy" because actual beach hair takes some solid effort.
-it's nice that you can go surf alone and noone questions your lack of company. really nice.
-as i was getting out of the water, i thought to myself "as my skills (ideally) progress, i hope i can be as happy without catching any waves as i am now. this is the lowest standard i'm ever gonna have so might as well revel in it"
-fresh ice water is astoundingly good after ocean time. i think my eyes rolled back into my head just from drinking water that tasted good.
-feeling people check out my bloated form in my clingy drenched wetsuit is always a nice ego deflation
-there seem to be a LOT of french people who come here to surf
-it's 9pm? fuck this time change!
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