argh, i hurt my neck really badly somehow? maybe whiplash from getting slammed by white water?

i got a mall massage and that helped restore some mobility and i'm just sorta stiff. but could i feel more old?! goddamn surfing is hard on the body.

going to have another lesson in santa cruz on saturday. i think i'm not gonna bother bringing my board.. that way i can drive fast and park as i please! plus i want to browse the racks for bigger boards. i'm starting to feel like a walden mega magic would work well for me as my attempts to "diet" have resulted in immediate misery. i don't want to change my life, i want to enhance it. it's expensive but not ridiculous if it will make me a happier paddler and rider. i see people obsessing over riding shortboards that aren't right for them and i don't want to be the same just because my longboard is pretty.

i'm over yesterday's disappointment..there's nowhere i'd rather be than out in the water in santa cruz with the dolphins. i have to admit, i've wondered at times if i'd like SUP because ir eally enjoy just calmly laying on my board out in the water but uh, no. fuck that paddle. fuck standing up the whole time too! i did watch some pretty cool 90s bodyboarding videos today though.. when the dudes get sucked over the lip and just flip with it.. pretty sweet.. maybe someday will try it.